Arco. Well, Arco was the first reason why I chose to come back to Italy sooner than I thought. It was an occasion to be finally working at the Rock Master - arguably one of the best climbing events worldwide - not as an employee of the International Federation but as a journalist, and to meet all the people that I had known for years under a different light. No obligations other than watching the comps, and writing about them, something akin to a dream come true. I couldn’t stop smiling. The biggest emotion was perhaps being member of a jury that had to award the best competition and rock climbers of the year, above all because I had the opportunity to meet people who had been in the climbing world for decades; people like Dario Rodiguez, the director of Desnivel, or Igor Koller, the first to free the famous multipitch called “Il pesce”. People whose stories are inspiring because they are stories of passion and commitment, sometimes against all odds. Being a climbing journalist or photographer now is even harder than before, but the passion that people put in it, struggling to juggle between a paying job and climbing journalism - which seldom pays enough - hit me as a reminder that yes, you should try to pursue your dreams.
The jury for the awards (photo D.Rodriguez)
The atmosphere in Arco is always special, and distinct from any other competition. The huge wall of Colodri serving as a backdrop for the competition wall is an amazing setting, but this year the weather seemed for once to work against the organizers: it started raining on Friday, and did not stop until Saturday night, just in time for the Lead finals.
A few things contributed to make the event less brilliant than usual. It was a difficult challenge to set up the Rock Master after last year’s Championship, which had been so flamboyant that any other thing could hardly meet up the expectations; and the calendar was not favorable as well, since in one week or so the World Champs will start in Paris. Many athletes, including some of the strongest, like Anna Stohr and Kilian Fischhuber, chose not to take part in the Rock Master to get to Bercy in the best possible shape.
(La foto è di Giulio Malfer)
Is the prestige of the Rock Master waining? Difficult to say. Certainly all those I had the chance to speak to told me they really enjoyed the competition. Sasha Digiulian, who had to withdraw because of an injury to the tendon, had come on purpose from the States - where she is due to start classes on Tuesday this week! - and had planned to compete in all disciplines; a sign that an event like Arco is a cherished appointment also for the younger athletes, and not just a vestige of another era. But when I interviewed him, Adam Ondra told me he had the feeling that something had changed, since many world class athletes were actually missing. Something that would never have happened in previous years.
With Adam after a 2 hour interview at Bar Pio! (photo d. Rodriguez)
Still, there is something special to the Rock Master. It is so easy to mix with the climbers and occasionally chat with them, and the formulas of the competition make the atmosphere friendly and relaxed. I think the athletes can feel the warmth and enthusiasm of the audience: there is probably no other competition that attracts such a huge public, thanks to the richness of the climbing areas surrounding Arco. It is almost a tradition to plan a climbing holiday in concurrence with the Rock Master, and the athletes can easily feel the warmth of a public who shares their same passion. Not even the rain could keep people away from the stadium. An ovation welcomed Ondra and Ramon when they walked in for the final of the Duel, and nobody could avoid shouting and cheering them up the wall. It was simply overwhelming.
When, on Sunday afternoon, I got in my car for the four-hours drive back home, I still had a big smile on my face.
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